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            雨楓軒原創文學網 - 純凈的綠色文學家園 !

            雨楓軒

            記憶鎮江

            時間:2019-04-29來源:本站原創 作者:林健心韻 點擊:
             
            春暖花開之際,我來到了京杭大運河和長江的交匯處一一鎮江。
               鎮江三面環山,一面臨水,是一座城盈山中,山在城中的山水城市。沿江屹立三座山,風姿各異:金山綺麗、焦山雄秀、北圍山險峻。碧波蕩漾的京杭大運河,與滾滾西來之水長江在此交匯,成就了一幅“江河立交橋”的美景。三山一水,組成了一幅美麗的山水畫卷,令鎮江有了“天下第一江山”的美譽。我第一次到鎮江,已是十年前的事了。只是那次在鎮江開會,匆匆而來,急急而去,竟沒有閑暇游覽鎮江的山山水水,不免有些遺憾。
            每個城市都有它獨特的氣質,皆因它所處的自然人文環境造就的。歷史上的鎮江處于江海聯運,江河轉運的重要樞紐,加上自身地形之雄,具天設之險,無數次被頂上前線,作為軍事重鎮和江防要地,經歷了戰爭的錘煉。因其地位雄勢,扼守長江,故名“鎮江”。“京口連岡三面,而大江橫陳,江旁極目千里,其勢大略如虎之出穴”。寥寥數語便形象地道出了鎮江雄峻顯要的軍事地位。南宋韓世忠率八千精銳困十萬金兵于黃天蕩,殺得金兵丟盔卸甲倉皇北竄,便是在鎮江。鴉片戰爭中,鎮江兒女用血肉之軀與英國侵略者浴血奮戰,誓死捍衛家園,書寫了鴉片戰爭中最壯烈的一戰,鎮江人的壯舉震驚了世界。鎮江之戰是英國侵略軍出動軍艦最多、投入兵力最大、戰斗最慘烈的一次,也是鴉片戰爭中的最后一戰。1857年4月,恩格斯在他的《英人對華的新遠征》一文中評介說:“如果這些侵略者到處都遭到同樣的抵抗,他們絕對到不了南京。”
            相比江南其他水鄉城市,鎮江更像合衣而臥,時刻保持警惕的戰士。鎮江的天空聚攏著太多的英雄氣概,這種不屈精神氣貫長虹,彪炳史冊。
            如果說,蘇州是江南聞名于外的城市,那么鎮江就是江南秀麗于內的城市。它身處江南,卻滿身北方的氣息。
            鎮江是浪漫的,它是愛情的化身。中國古代四大愛情傳說中,白蛇傳、天仙配、梁祝化蝶,在鎮江這片土地上都有跡可循。三國孫策、周瑜分別迎娶了鎮江喬玄美麗如花的女兒大喬、小喬。蔣介石與宋美齡定情焦山定慧寺,成就了一段姻緣。
            鎮江是充滿詩意的。一座山水城,半部江南詩。不知是鎮江的風景成就了騷客的文采,還是詩人的才氣令鎮江的風景更讓人神往?“何處望神州,滿眼風光北固樓”,“我勸天公重抖擻,不拘一格降人才”,“京口瓜州一水間,鐘山只隔數重山。春風又綠江南岸,明月何時照我還?”歷代文人墨客在鎮江留下的名篇佳句。千百年來一直為人們所傳誦。文人們把最好的作品都拿來寫鎮江,使這座用詩文砌成的鎮江,具有了海納百川的城市品格和氣質。
            鎮江是高貴的。它是深山秀水中的城市,而城市又隱藏了深山秀水。城市高雅的品味,引來無數名人雅士在此隱居,使鎮江有了“隱士之都”稱號,造就了中國人引以為傲的隱士文化。隱士文化化剛勁為柔和、變雄渾為瀟灑,把中國的山水畫和田園詩推向極致。
            來鎮江,不能不游金山。
            “樹影中流見,鐘聲兩岸聞。”站在唐朝詩人張祜描寫的金山上,晶瑩細碎的陽光,親昵的拂揉著大雄寶殿每一寸蒼老的肌膚和每一位來金山寺祈福的旅客。極目遠眺,江天一色,清風徐徐,水皺波瀾。面對雄渾壯麗的大江,怎么也無法與曾演繹過一幕幕金戈鐵馬的篇章和神話傳說聯系在一起:白娘子水漫金山寺,梁紅玉擊鼓抗金兵,岳飛金山寺祥夢……。康熙帝親筆題寫的“江天禪寺”幾個大字懸掛寺門。撫摸著歲月久遠,斑駁陸離的欄桿,迎著微涼的江風,你仿佛穿越了時空,便有了和歷代文人墨客零距離吟詩作畫的沖動。
            世事茫然暮照間,春情摯愛蹬金山。
            浪捲戰戟蹤無影,惟羨禪閣聳岫嵐。
            古人已逝,金山猶在,此情此景,令人感慨不已。說起金山寺,各地自然還有許多冠以金山的名勝。諸如位于山東省慶云縣的金山寺,這里流傳著唐僧出生送往金山寺及去天竺取經的美麗傳說;始建于唐朝垂拱三年,因位于孟州城西五里處紫金山上,因此得名金山寺,更因周武王與諸侯會盟而揚名;位于江西省南昌市的金山寺,這座金山寺建筑小巧玲瓏,畫棟雕梁。全寺近百人除少數雜工役使外,均為女尼,且大部分是年輕的女尼;另外甘肅永昌也有座金山寺。但,每每提及金山寺,腦海里首先浮現的依然是耳熟能詳的,白娘子大戰法海,水漫金山寺的故事。鎮江金山寺已深深扎固在心中,多少人都想親臨鎮江金山寺,探究一番梁紅玉擊鼓退寇,白娘子金山尋夫,攜蝦兵蟹將水漫金山的場景。
            金山從唐代起就已馳名中外,歷代文人墨客來到金山,留下諸多詩詞史話。“登臨金山添豪氣,江天盡攬入畫題。”“西津江口月初弦,水氣昏昏上接天。清渚白沙茫不辨,只應燈火是漁船。”一一(宋)秦觀。“溪水潺潺入鄭湖,花如覆錦滿平蕪。夢中山水縈情處,沈括風流絕世無。”一一(清)戴守梧。當時間走進十一世紀,在那個凄涼的月夜,歷史上最出名的一次賞月是在11世紀的一個凄涼月夜。蘇東坡乘一葉扁舟,陪著友人踏上金山寺。皓月當空,江濤吐霧,把酒換盞,吟詩作賦,那詩音至今似在耳旁繚繞。
            “半間石室安禪地,蓋代功名不易磨。白蟒化龍歸海去,巖中留下老頭陀。”站在位于金山西側懸崖上的“法海洞”前,裴頭陀依然端坐洞中一隅苦修,冷眼觀人間春秋代謝,凡華纖塵煙雨。斷不為榮華富貴而動紅塵之心,也不為遭受世間冷嘲熱諷辯解一份。
            法海洞前站著一對戀人,女孩子小鳥依人般緊偎著已經步入中年的愛人,認真的觀賞著洞中的“法海”。女孩子輕聲細語撒嬌道,滾滾紅塵,我惦記著你,守護著你我那份甜蜜的情愫。我心飛馳,可能是忘川河上,女孩子遲遲不愿喝那碗孟婆湯,這才貽誤了與中年男子相約重逢的時間。你成婚了,她還小;她長大了,你已老。大千世界我們害怕孤單,害怕與那份屬于自己的情感擦肩而過。滾滾紅塵你與她再次相逢,情緣再續,這一生便也值了。怎么這樣,這法海斷不該拆散人間的好鴛鴦,女孩子呢喃著。中年男人親昵的拍了拍女孩的肩:“小傻瓜,神奇的傳說總是會牽動人們的心,法海是禪師,抓妖是他的職責,再說了,真實的法海禪師苦行得道,是民眾敬仰的開山祖師,從來沒有拆散別人家庭的說法。史書中僅有一則記載,是法海將累累傷害百姓的白色蟒蛇驅入長江,是為民除害之善舉。”
            “那就應該為法海正名,還法海正義之身。我相信愛情與身份、年齡的差異是沒有關系的,人和妖也應該能相愛的。”女孩子仰起頭,含情脈脈地盯著自己的愛人。看到這籠罩春光瀲滟下的一幕愛情,令人頓生羨慕。落盡纖塵,打動心腸的依舊是那一段如煙往事,是的,愛情是絕不受世俗觀念約束的,這就是愛情的“魔性”吧。可是,當人們固守的觀念,與法律、體制發生碰撞時,最終的堅持,需要多么大的勇氣和克難的堅韌!金山上這對戀人,不正以他們真摯的愛情向世人證明愛只和情感有關嗎!
            金山建筑精巧,廟宇依山而建,山寺輝映,渾然一體。慈壽塔拔地而起,聳立金山,山是一座寺,寺成一座山,山因寺得名,寺為山增色。“金山寺裹山,見寺,見塔,不見山”的景色揚名中外。更令人不解的是,天下廟門均朝南,獨有金山面西開。也許,那里距佛教徒們所信仰的極樂世界是最近的吧。
            生長江南的鎮江,顯現著與其他水鄉不同的氣質,是我心里最不江南的江南了。半城山水半城詩的閑云野鶴,讓人把心想留在那里。看鎮江,就是在讀一本厚厚的書,鎮江記載了太多的故事。
            春色早江南,江波映寺山。
            情隨花絮菲,煙雨亂蓬船。
            匆匆二三眼,鎮江已扎心底。遲遲古風里,和煦覆滿春舟。在心底我默默祝福著那對戀人,愿金山寺能圓了他們的愛情夢。
            我想留在鎮江,留在這片土地上,認真的生活,認真的戀愛,認真的老去……
            2019.4.23
             
             
             
             
            作品集林健心韻 責任編輯:秋雨楓
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